No-Nonsense, Affordable Skincare Routine for Acne-prone Skin
In the thick of the lockdown in 2020, my 16-year-old brother broke out. I was worried because as someone who had acne-prone skin since I was 15, I knew firsthand the psychosocial impacts of acne.
I decided to intervene. And this was the result.
But before I reveal the details on how to create a no-nonsense, affordable skincare routine for acne-prone skin…a little bit of a back story.
When I noticed his breakouts one night, I told him to use my skincare products. But after a few months, I didn’t see any real changes with his skin. They got even worse.
I had been trying to manage my own acne for years and never had consistently good results.
My acne has always been mild, with occasional big bumps on the U-zone of my face.
But his acne was moderate, with pronounced bumps on his forehead and temples, and zits on his cheeks.
Something switched on.
Of course, Lara. The reason they’re not working for your brother’s acne is because they never really worked on your acne in the first place. You’re just hoping that they will be true to their claims and promises.
That pushed me to learn, relearn, and unlearn.
To my surprise, my internet algorithm fed me skincare content from dermatologists and cosmetic chemists. Previously, my YouTube searches mostly led to videos by beauty gurus.
This shift introduced me to a more scientific perspective on dealing with acne, rather than relying on mythical solutions (like seeking out someone’s closely guarded beauty secrets).
I was into clean beauty and holistic acne treatment that involved diet and lifestyle changes.
And I put my lifeline on them.
But they were actually sucking the life out of me.
Clean beauty made me spend more money (because clean beauty products cost more than the mass market ones).
Avoiding acne triggers made me anxious with food. (I have been slim my whole life, but in 2011 I significantly lost weight when I had a very restrictive diet.)
Exercising and other healthy habits were all done for the sake of controlling acne that it drove me nuts that I couldn’t do something just for the joy of doing it. (I mean why should I do everything for acne?)
I knew I wouldn’t subject my own brother to that kind of stuff.
Consuming skincare content from Dr. Dray, Cassandra Bankson, Doctorly, Labmuffin, Beauty Brains, Dr. Anjali Mahto, Dr. Sam Bunting, Ecowell, and Kelly Driscoll made me see I wasn’t really using evidence-based, research-backed active ingredients for my acne skincare.
And although I kept switching products for over a decade, not a single one of them had those ingredients.
While I was still in the Philippines, finding affordable skincare products was crucial due to the weak purchasing power of the Philippine peso.
Imported products from the US, South Korea, and Japan are like luxuries in my home country although the products are technically cheap from their source countries.
I had to rely on forums and consumer reviews, as return policies were strict. I also had to be very strategic with budgeting.
So yes, this post reflects the challenges of managing acne in a developing country.
Although I could have opted for locally made skincare products in the Philippines, learning basic stuff on cosmetic regulations and formulation made me uneasy buying them.
Ingredient lists are incomplete, and many products are fragranced.
I hope things have changed in the skincare scene in the Philippines since I moved to the US.
Okay, that was a tangent. But at least you understand where I am coming from.
Principles of a No-Nonsense, Affordable Skincare Routine for Acne-prone Skin
Learning how to create a skincare routine for acne-prone skin starts with principles.
With all the noise in social media, we may buy things out of excitement and even FOMO.
But skincare principles will anchor us on no-nonsense spending and treatment decisions.
The principles below are a culmination of perspectives I heard from dermatologists, cosmetic chemists, estheticians, cosmetic dermatologists, and informed skincare consumers who are in the online skincare space.
It helps to listen from different perspectives because expertise in one field doesn’t mean expertise in another.
For instance, dermatologists are experts on skin diseases, but they are not experts on cosmetic chemistry and formulation.
Aside from that, experts usually don’t stay in their lane so it’s good to know what the true expert in the field has to say.
So, before I introduce you to the skincare routine that managed my brother’s acne, let me introduce you first to the principles that guided me in helping my brother.
1. Before switching to any products, patch test first.
2. Don’t introduce or change products all at once. This makes it easier to identify which product/s is/are irritating or not working.
3. Don’t go on a witch hunt for comedogenic ingredients. The thing is the skin’s reaction to a product does not solely rely on an ingredient—it’s the formulation too.
4. Identify the purpose that each of your skincare products does in your skincare routine. Make sure their purposes align with your skin goals and skin needs, not on skin trends.
5. Start with something that doesn’t cost a lot. Expensive doesn’t always mean more effective.
6. Start acne treatment with a repaired skin barrier. With a healthy skin barrier, you’ll be able to tolerate acne treatment and decrease the severity of purging. A happy skin barrier is the foundation of healthy skin. (This article from Cleveland Clinic explains the skin barrier and the signs of damage.)
7. Skincare routine is personal. You have to pay attention to what works and doesn’t work for your skin. Your mileage may vary.
8. Keep yourself objective in this process. You may need to take down notes. (Making a skincare routine for my brother pushed me to be more objective. I have made decisions about my skincare that were clearly based on my emotions. So, when stuff did not work, I blamed myself and my skin. I even hated my existence. It’s important to be objective and sober to see that the problem is NOT you. The problem is the skincare products didn’t work for you and it’s time to see what needs to be improved.)
9. Aesthetics and skin health are not the same thing. Healthy skin doesn’t even mean flawless skin.
10. Always listen to your skin. If your skin becomes irritated, stop using your acne treatment. Remember a damaged skin barrier leads to more breakouts. As Kelly Driscoll puts it, you need to have skintuition (skin + intuition).
11. Results happen with consistency and commitment to the routine.
12. Trust your skin that it knows how to heal itself. Oftentimes, our skincare routine approach is overintervention rather than support. We need to see our skin as God’s good design rather than stupid and broken.
Simple Skincare Routine for Acne-prone Skin
With the principles mentioned above, I built a simple skincare routine for my brother composed of cleanser, acne treatment, moisturizer, and sunscreen.
NOTE: His skincare routine went through different iterations the more I learned about acne skincare. Phew, that whole thing of researching, reading, and watching videos took me 2 years. It was like taking a degree.
Cleanser
This is the category in skincare routine where a high price tag doesn’t matter.
As long as the product does its job of cleansing, it is an effective product no matter the price point.
I specifically chose a fragrance-free cleanser. Continued use of fragranced face wash can make skin more sensitive to the fragrance and other substances in the product.
This increased sensitivity can lead to inflammation and irritation over time.
Remember that my skincare principle is to make sure the skin barrier is healthy and putting that principle into action starts with gentle cleansing.
Also, since part of this routine is sunscreen, I included an oil-based cleanser that my brother uses at night.
Oil-based cleanser removes sebum and sunscreen, while the water-based cleanser removes remaining impurities, preventing pore blockages that can lead to acne.
Products
- Hada Labo Oil Cleanser (This oil cleanser has emulsifiers that will allow for easier wash up. Oil cleansers without emulsifiers make the oil hard to wash away from the face.)
- Babyflo Soap-free Bath (This is a locally available product in the Philippines. It’s not technically a face wash, but it does the job. Using this dirt-cheap product freed up space in my skincare budget.)
Hydrator
This is another category that is not a necessity. Dr. Dray particularly mentions this in her videos.
But I used my more cautious judgment call.
I wanted to make sure my brother’s skin barrier was as healthy as it could be before the introduction of acne treatment.
Hydrators, such as humectants like glycerin, panthenol, and honey extract, help bind water molecules to the skin.
This fortifies the skin barrier’s structural integrity and enhances its protective function.
Products
- CosRx Centella Water Alcohol-Free Toner
- CosRx Full Fit Propolis Synergy Toner
- One Thing Centella Asiatica Extract Toner
- PURITO Centella Unscented Serum
NOTE: He didn’t use them at one time. Their prices and availability vary on Shopee (this is the online shopping platform I was using when I was still in the Philippines). So, I bought what was available and had a reasonable price each time a bottle ran out.)
Moisturizer
Hydrators increase the water content of the skin by attracting moisture from the environment or from deeper layers of the skin, while moisturizers help to seal in moisture and prevent water loss from the skin (trans-epidermal water loss).
Think of applying a moisturizer as providing a protective layer on the skin’s surface. This helps maintain the skin’s natural barrier function.
I specifically looked for a moisturizer that has ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids—essential components of the skin barrier, collectively known as the lipid barrier or lipid matrix.
Luckily, I found K-beauty moisturizers that contain those ingredients, come in big sizes, and are relatively inexpensive considering the amount you get from each bottle.
Products
- Illiyoon Ceramide Ato Soothing Gel (This one contains ceramides.)
- Illiyoon Ceramide Ato Concentrate Cream (This one has ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids. It’s more occlusive than the soothing gel.)
Acne Treatment
Remember that acne vulgaris happens when tiny hair follicles in the skin get clogged with oil, dead skin cells, and bacteria.
These follicles are connected to oil-producing glands under the skin that make sebum, which keeps our skin and hair moist. Bacteria that normally live on our skin (Cutibacterium acnes, or C. acnes) can grow too much in this extra oil.
So, to treat acne, hair follicles need to get unclogged, and bacteria that feed on the sebum in the clogged hair follicles should be killed.
Adapalene is a retinoid that unclogs hair follicles by encouraging skin cell turnover.
Benzoyl peroxide is an antimicrobial agent that kills the bacteria that contribute to breakouts. It also helps to break down and remove dead skin cells, which can help to unclog pores.
These two actives are the workhorse in this acne skincare routine.
Products
- Differin Gel (Honestly, you can use any brand. Adapalene 0.1 is the generic name for this over-the-counter topical treatment.)
- Neutrogena Stubborn Acne AM Treatment 2.5% Micronized Benzoyl Peroxide (You can use any brand too. But I really recommend specifically looking for 2.5% micronized benzoyl peroxide. More than 2.5% will just hurt the skin barrier.)
A LONG NOTE YOU REALLY NEED TO READ 😊:
To be completely honest, these two were not the acne treatment I first chose for my brother. I made him use a salicylic acid toner (CosRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid) which he used at least 2 to 3 times a week.
I have to say it worked for my brother! But I don’t attribute the success to the product alone.
I believe restoring my brother’s skin barrier played a key role (which was achieved through gentle cleansing, hydration, and moisturization).
Remember that acne is much worse with a broken skin barrier.
Dr Dray even mentioned that mild to moderate acne can actually improve just with the use of cleanser, moisturizer, and sunscreen. So that’s a thing you may want to try for yourself.
Although my brother’s acne improved, I didn’t stop researching. It’s mostly because I was still breaking out. My research led me to adapalene.
I learned that adapalene is good not just for treatment but also for maintenance. That was an aha moment for me: my skin goal for me and my brother was not just to treat our acne, but to prevent further breakouts too.
Now, there is where the difference between my skin and my brother’s skin showed up. My brother could handle using adapalene and benzoyl peroxide together, but I couldn’t.
I even had more breakouts because benzoyl peroxide was irritating to my skin barrier.
This is where the importance of listening to your skin and customizing your routine comes in handy. I stopped using benzoyl peroxide, and my skin was so much happier.
We stopped using salicylic acid toner. I learned from Dr Dray that even simple acts of cleansing and moisturizing help with desquamation (a fancy term for the natural process of shedding dead skin cells).
Using chemical exfoliation with acne treatment can be overwhelming for the skin barrier (remember Principle #6).
Before my brother and I were able to use adapalene 5 times a week, we used it very gradually.
- First month: once a week
- Second month: twice a week
- Third month: thrice a week
- Fourth month: four to five times a week
Since I was just learning all this skin stuff through the internet, and we didn’t have the luxury of consulting a dermatologist and esthetician if things went south, I had to be cautious!
I only introduced benzoyl peroxide in his routine when he tolerated adapalene.
I remained very cautious about it, so I only allowed my brother to use them together once to twice a week.
Another thing to consider, severe and aggressive types of acne will not respond to these topical treatments. (This quiz is a helpful guide to determining the severity of your acne.)
My brother’s acne was moderate, and that made him a good candidate for this acne treatment.
If you have severe acne, you need to consult with a dermatologist as soon as possible to prevent infection and deep facial scarring.
There may be upfront costs, but in the long run, this will be the most financially reasonable option than buying tons of skincare products that are not designed to address this medical condition.
Aside from that, a dermatologist’s intervention will help reduce pain, discomfort, and risk of infection.
Seeking prompt care can improve acne symptoms and enhance quality of life.
I don’t want you to wait for too long and suffer unnecessarily from the psychosocial impacts of acne.
Sunscreen
This was the most challenging part of the routine to nail down. I was also a victim of the Purito sunscreen 2020 scandal.
But that incident brought to light crucial factors I have to consider when picking sunscreen.
- Do I want organic (chemical) or inorganic (physical) SPF filters? Or hybrid (with organic and inorganic SPF filters)?
- Is it quality assured? (Although the testing of sunscreen products can vary due to factors like country regulations, product claims, and manufacturer protocols, the company must do its homework and make sure its SPF claims are supported.)
- Is this a product I will reach for every day and not dread to apply? (A sunscreen’s cosmetic elegance helps in consistency in sunscreen application. A sunscreen that’s greasy and gives a white cast may put you off from using it.)
- Is this within my budget? (Usually, when we buy something expensive, we skimp on using it. Not applying enough sunscreen defeats its purpose.)
Sunscreen can be a not-so-affordable commitment. But I still included it in my brother’s routine since acne treatment products plus sunscreen are a power duo.
Products
- make p:rem UV Defense Me. Blue Ray Sun Fluid (We really enjoyed this, but the reformulation discouraged us from buying it again. It was too shiny and white for our Filipino skin tone.)
- Dr. G Green Mild Up Sun+
- Rohto Skin Aqua Super Moisture Milk Sunscreen SPF50+
It’s also important to complement sunscreen application with other sun protection measures such as wearing protective clothing and accessories, limiting direct sunlight exposure in peak hours, and seeking shade.
A Step-by-Step Guide on Using Affordable Skincare Routine for Acne-prone Skin
Daytime
1. Wash face with lukewarm water. Use a gentle cleanser if preferred.
2. Blot off excess water from face. Make sure not to completely dry the face to allow for enhanced absorption and easier spreadability of products that are next in the routine.
3. Apply hydrating toner. You may also opt for a hydrating serum. Tap and press the product gently on face. It doesn’t have to be completely absorbed before you move on to your moisturizer.
NOTE: If you choose to not spend on hydrating toner or serum, apply your moisturizer on your damp face. The kind of moisturizer you need to use depends on your climate. In my brother’s case, he uses light moisturizer in the morning.
4. When moisturizer has absorbed into the skin, apply adequate amount of sunscreen, about three fingerlengths or quarter of a teaspoon. (However, the amount varies depending on the skin area and the sunscreen’s consistency.) Reapply when necessary.
5. Wait at least 10-20 minutes before you apply makeup. (My brother uses a pigmented pressed powder to tone down the whiteness of his sunscreen. It works for him.)
Nighttime
1. Use an oil cleanser to remove sunscreen and other impurities.
2. Repeat steps 2 to 4 from the daytime routine.
3. Apply a pea-sized amount of the adapalene gel. Then, apply another layer of moisturizer. This is called the sandwich method.
NOTES:
For my brother’s routine, I decided that he use lliyoon Ceramide Ato Concentrate Cream as his second layer of moisturizer. Depending on the climate where you live and your skin type, you may find the cream to be too suffocating and/or clogging. In that case, I recommend you use a lighter version like the Illiyoon Ceramide Ato Soothing Gel as your second layer. However, I still recommend lliyoon Ceramide Ato Concentrate Cream on days your skin barrier has become irritated from using acne treatment (Yes, it can still definitely happen!).
When the skin has tolerated adapalene, introduce benzoyl peroxide to the routine slowly. Apply a pea-sized amount over adapalene. Apply moisturizer. For my brother, I decided that he should only use them together once a week since I didn’t want to compromise his skin barrier. A damaged skin barrier always leads to more breakouts.
There are people like me who are sensitive to benzoyl peroxide. If you find this to be true to your situation, you may opt for a short contact therapy. If your skin is still irritated after doing this (and despite hydrating and moisturizing your skin barrier), you may need to give up on benzoyl peroxide. Depending on the results you got from adapalene 0.1%, you may want to try a prescription of adapalene 0.3% if you’re not satisfied with the results.
Remember that I mentioned I made sure my brother’s skin barrier was in its tiptop shape before introducing acne treatment. If you want to do the same, then do only Steps 1 and 2 of the nighttime routine to repair your skin barrier before using acne actives.
Results of the No-Nonsense Affordable Skincare Routine for Acne
After almost two years of patience and consistent effort, my brother finally got his acne under control.
The great news is that the large bumps on his forehead and temples, as well as the pustules on his cheeks, didn’t leave any scars. This highlights the importance of early intervention.
Even though my brother and I are miles apart (long-distance sibling relationship), he’s now well-versed in managing his acne.
What’s even better is that he’s been sharing his knowledge with his friends, helping them avoid falling for deceptive advertising tactics.
It makes me happy to see others benefit, especially because I fell prey to those schemes myself.
I still figuratively beat my chest for the money wasted on products that promised the whole world to me but failed to deliver.
But the blessing is the more I worked on improving my brother’s skin, the more I learned about skincare for myself. (And the more I realized treating acne is not vanity.)
Now, I know how to care for my skin without getting lost in endless product research and spending sprees.
True skincare wisdom comes from a combination of learning and practical experience—not falling for empty promises and marketing gimmicks.
And this is not a false claim: the more you learn skincare from trustworthy experts of different fields, the more you’ll be nonsense in your approach to taking care of your skin.
